Monday 24 October 2016

The Boldr Journey Watch

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The new Journey is a curvaceous meca-quartz chronograph that draws on the vintage aviator aesthetic seen in the Voyage, but pushes it into much more aggressive territory. https://www.tagwatcheuer.is The 43mm case comes in a satin/matte finish and features wire lugs and a big dome mineral crystal. The wire lugs clearly reference the early days of the military watch, when pocket watches had lugs soldered on to them to strap to the wrist.

This sandwich style-dial features large numerals for the even hours and large rounded slots for the odd, all of which are cutouts, showing the color of the layer below. This adds a lot of texture to the dial, as well as an overall military-stencil feel. Around the edge of the dial, you will find a minute/chrono seconds index of contrasting lines.

The bi-register design keeps the dial feeling very symmetrical and continue to speaks to the vintage roots of the design. Lastly, at 6 you have a date window positioned just above a cutout marker.

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The Seiko “Turtle” SRP775 Watch

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Last month the opportunity arose when Zach was kind enough to lend me his SRP775 for a few weeks to put through the paces. https://www.tagwatcheuer.is A few days in Zach mentioned that he already missed the watch, and now that I’ve spent some time with it I completely understand why.
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Not unlike most watch lovers, Seiko holds a special place in my heart. I clearly remember my dad buying himself a new Seiko Kinetic when I was was a just a kid, and him letting me try it on to feel the lightness of the titanium. While I knew in the abstract what Rolex was, Seiko was my first live introduction to a good watch.

The water hadn’t yet warmed up in Maine, but the ice was out so the Turtle accompanied me on a few frigid dips. Obviously, swimming a few meters below the surface was no challenge for the watch, nor was the temperature.

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Damasko x Timeless Luxury DB 1 Watch

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Luxury brands are all about boutique editions, coming out with new ones seemingly weekly. But at the price point we discuss on w&w, it’s far rarer. https://www.tagwatcheuer.is First off all, there aren’t many retailers out there that carry the watches we discuss, but even fewer that would do anything interesting if they had the chance.

Timeless made not one, but four models with the same core aesthetic concept, each limited to 50 units. They are the DB 1, 2, 3 and, yup, 4. They utilize two different types of case, each in both steel and Damasko’s Damest black coating.

The cases are made of proprietary nickel-free ice-hardened steel that is 710 vickers straight through for great durability and scratch resistance. The PVD models further feature their “Damest” coating in addition, which is a multi-layer black coating with an even more increased hardness.

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Wednesday 19 October 2016

Zelos Watches Returns with the Zelos Cosmos

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The selling feature of the Cosmos is visible right off the bat. Rather than using traditional hands fixed at the center of the dial, https://www.tagwatcheuer.is the Cosmos uses discs in a multi-level display to tell the passing of the hours and minutes.

The minute disc floats above the hour disc which is cut out to show the hours below. The cutouts leave twelve stick “hands” one of which is colored differently to denote it as the proper minute hand. Also below that level is a minute chapter ring with five minute numeral markers and stick markers for the rest.

The topmost level has sick hour markers around the dial. Both the minute track and hour markers are made of sapphire glass. The hour track is held in place with four screws which are visible under the large, double domed sapphire crystal.

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Oris Artelier Jumping Hour Watch

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The Oris Artelier Jumping Hour. Part of one their dressier lines, the Jumping Hour stands out from the collection not just because of the complication, https://www.tagwatcheuer.is but also for having a rather unmistakeable, heavily textured dial.

The case of the Oris Jumping Hour is simple at a glance, but reveals a mix of interesting geometry and superb finishing upon closer inspection. Measuring 40.5 x 47 x 11.3mm it’s a solid watch that is perhaps large to be a classic dress watch, but a nice size as a formal leaning everyday watch. That said, the size is actually tempered by the conical design of the case.

The result of all this is some nice complexity that while subtle, adds to the overall look and luxurious feel of the watch. These are details that require great machining and precise tolerances to pull off cleanly.

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Sunday 16 October 2016

The Smiths PRS-40 Watch



This chunk of metal is unapologetically brutal and tough. Harsh angles, https://www.tagwatcheuer.is slab sides, 12 o’clock crown, a 2-piece design and built in pass-through lugs,make this watch solid and purpose driven. That said, it has a certain unique character, like something that was military designed for a specific function but ended up aesthetically pleasing.

The quartz movement inside paired with the lack of springbars makes this a very robust watch that can likely take a harsh blow or two; perfect for tool watch and outdoor use.

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The Aevig Valkyr Watch



For an option with a bit more style, the Aevig Valkyr get’s the job done. A vintage-inspired sport watch, the Valkyr was one of the more original designs I came across this last year, especially at the price. It’s small at 39mm, but chunky, being made of a solid block of either stainless or CuSn8 bronze, giving it some nice mass.

Perhaps the coolest detail, however, is the simply single color bezel that is used to compliment the tones of the case and dial. https://www.tagwatcheuer.is While this one is a bit less rugged than others on the list, it still sports a 100m WR, sapphire crystal and a Miyota 9015 movement, making it a solid everyday watch.

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Citizen Nighthawk Watch



The ‘ol Nighthawk makes its way into many a guide because it’s just one of those watches that succeeds at so much. Multiple timezones, https://www.tagwatcheuer.is calculator bezel, 200m WR, good lume, and mean looks just to start. Yes, it’s quartz, but it’s an eco-drive,very accurate.

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Wednesday 12 October 2016

The Damasko DA36 Black Watch

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Earlier this week we reviewed the Damasko DA36 black, a wonderful modern take on the classic German flieger. As we noted in our review, the DA36 black is not just a watch. It is a fantastic piece of engineering with a whole lot of practical tech built into it.

From the ice-hardened proprietary steel to the patented crown design, each added component is intended to benefit the user, https://www.tagwatcheuer.is and not for the brand to tout in some marketing campaign that’s all glitz and no substance.Whether it’s the way the garment was assembled or the materials used, each piece chosen goes the extra mile in terms of performance, comfort, and function. That they look good is just icing on the cake.

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Christopher Ward Trident C60 GMT 600 38mm Watch

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Measuring 38 x 44.75 x 13mm, it is an actual small dive watch, but one with good proportions that make it feel nice and solid. https://www.tagwatcheuer.is It’s small in size, but not in feeling, maintaining it’s status as a sport watch at heart.

The 6.5 x 4mm screw down crown mixes matte and polished surfaces for some nice detail, and is flanked by small, but purposeful guards. Flipping the watch over you can see one of the clearer updates to the design. It too has artwork featuring a trident over a wave pattern, but rather than an etching, it’s now a deep 3D stamping with nice detail.

The bezel is fairly tall and has a coin edging that is easy to grasp. The 120-click uni-directional mechanism is stiff and snappy, with good action and precision. It feels solid when not in use and has little to no back play unless you force it. Another upgrade to the new Tridents is the use of a ceramic bezel.

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The MMT R Series Watches

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MMT (not to be confused with the “smart watch” platform) watches, whose extremely elegant and minimal pocket watches we’ve covered before, https://www.tagwatcheuer.is have jumped into wrist mounted timepieces for the first time with their new “R” series.

The lugless case is a smooth piece of rounded walnut from edge to edge, save a steel or rose gold pvd ring around the dial. Those with a keen eye might have already noticed something is missing… there are no crowns on the R series. Rather, the ISAswiss quartz movement is set via a recessed button on the back, which jogs the hands forward.

The metal chassis cuts under, leaving space for the strap to be hidden, while emphasizing the wood above. Then there is a metal lip that leads into the walnut bezel, which provides a nice contrast when seen at an angle.

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Sunday 9 October 2016

Modern Day Pocket Watches

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The T300k is a dark departure for the brand, one that examines a more textured style. The dial features a full-set of gun metal numerals on top of a pattern of interwoven black and grey bricks. https://www.tagwatcheuer.is The three black hands appear ony as silhouttes on top of the dial, which also includes a date off of three. The shell is black ebony wood and the case is PVD matte black.

While that occasionally happens with a watch, more often than not, I check the time while in the middle of another action; walking, typing, etc. Never really stopping in the moment. Regardless, their contemporary aesthetic, use of wood and controlled design sensibility are very compelling.

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Hamilton Retail Store Field Watches

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Hamilton had been producing small field and navigator watches for the government under the GG-W-113 and MIL-W-46374 specifications since the mid-1960s.  https://www.tagwatcheuer.is When the government decided in the mid-1980s to stop purchasing and issuing large batches of military design specification watches from Hamilton and other manufacturers, Hamilton was left with 20+ years of manufacturing experience and equipment for these watches. 

Rather than scrap the gear, Hamilton decided to get creative and found a way to keep making the watches.The company negotiated contracts with a few outdoor equipment and gadget retail stores to buy essentially the same watch that Hamilton had been making for the government, marketed now towards sportsmen and other outdoorsy types.

The dials are a simple military style design with a large 12-hour track and smaller, interior 24-hour track.  The hour markers and hands are lumed, and most examples you find will show nice patina.

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Wednesday 5 October 2016

The Lüm-Tec Combat B19 Bronze Watch

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The recent uptick in bronze watches, from the beastly Ancon Tank to the subtle Archimede Pilot and lots in between, has made me, and lots of you, fans of the material. https://www.tagwatcheuer.is The warm, copper to yellow brass tones mixed with green/brown patinas has a very different presence from steel, one that is both stylish and rugged and a welcome addition to one’s collection. And since it’s a material that is predominantly used on tool divers (a few pilot watches now too), seeing it on the Combat’s early 20th century military/pilot case was a refreshing change.

Lüm-Tec went back to perhaps the most iconic Combat dial they’ve made, that of the long sold-out and nearly impossible to find B2.Mixing the oversized 3, 6, 9 and 12 numerals of an aviator, with a more field-style design, the B2-dial is as legible as it is attractive.

This facet of the design is particularly emphasized by both the olive hue, which feels like it’s right out of WWII memorabilia, and the heavy lume application. Lüm-Tec lives up to its name once again on the B19, with some of the thickest lume I’ve seen on a dial. It actually looks hand painted on the large numerals, overlapping the edges of the numerals ever-so-slightly.

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The Omega Mark Series

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The Mark series introduced the first of the Speedmasters to look significantly different than the classic Professional. https://www.tagwatcheuer.is The MK II (the first in the series) contained the trusty Omega 861/ Lemania 1873 calibre, packaged in a tonneau shaped case with an inset tachymetre bezel and a mineral crystal.

The MK III came along in 1971. This was the first automatic Speedmaster, with the Omega calibre 1040/ Lemania 1340–a two-register chronograph. Given the reference number of 176.002, the MK III featured a date display and a central chrono minute hand similar to the legendary Lemania 5100.

There was a conventional 12-hour chrono totalizer sub-dial at 6 o’clock, and a unique running seconds and 24-hour indication on the sub-dial at 9 o’clock. The case was large, deep, and decidedly “space” looking, with the tachymetre scale on an inner bezel.


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